What if you

  • lost your home?
  • lost your livelihood?
  • had a dire diagnosis?

 

With triple trauma, Raynor Winn, armed with Paddy Dillon’s guidebook and husband Moth with a copy of Beowulf, embark on a 630-mile walk on the sea-swept South West Coast Path. From Somerset to Dorset, through Devon and Cornwall. They begin their pilgrimage looking like this, β€œa pair of stranded turtles” says Raynor, who unintentionally left her cap at home.

 

For over a year, these 50+year-olds lived in the wild, setting up a tent at night and putting one foot in front of the other by day. Deprived of income, they subsisted on government funds with a few British pounds deposited into their account weekly.

As Raynor explains, we put β€œone foot in front of another in a metronome of blankness [which] was strangely satisfying and I didn’t want to think. But as Moth struggled on, one thought had crept in; how stupid it was to be doing this, the irresponsibility of dragging him here.”

 

 

The SW Coast Path, shown in photos, is unrealistic for most of their journey. The path was often ruggedβ€”spiny shrubs of gorse, and bramble. Raynor explains, β€œBut our feet instinctively followed the path, drawn west on the dusty umbilical cord that was allowing us to grow, unseen, in our strip of wilderness. Trevose Head appeared in focus, with endless headlands disappearing south into the mist, yet to be trodden.”

Husband Moth doesn’t speak as narrator in the book, but Raynor tells us about him . . .

β€œThe bakery by the post office was selling the last of its pasties for twenty-five pence each. Moth bought as many as he could, handing one to each of the homeless.” Periodically, she describes their physical condition: β€œβ€œI dried my bird’s-nest hair, the warm dry air a forgotten pleasure. Living wild on the path, we were always wet. Wet with sweat, wet with rain or just wet from the moist air. Our clothes were damp, always. Damp or wringing wet with sweat during the day, damp from the moist air during the night, damp and ice cold in the morning. There would be moments of dryness, when we sat in the sun, packs off, socks off, drying, to be put back on and wet again within minutes.” They peed in the dark, among the stunted blackthorn, wet with sea spray, pretending Moth would never need a doctor.

About half-way through the odyssey, the couple meet a woman with a Border collie, who recognizes Ray and Moth’s situation and makes a pronouncement: β€œβ€œI can tell; you have the look.” β€œThe look?” β€œIt’s touched you, it’s written all over you: you’ve felt the hand of nature. It won’t ever leave you now; you’re salted. Author Ray responds to that, β€œβ€œIs this coast the land of sages and prophets? They seem to be around every corner . . . Salted. I like that. Flavored, preserved, like the blackberries.”

 

Cluster of blackberriesΒ  Β Pixabay

 

The Fight to Survive Continues

Moth is struggling, the physical endeavor his friend, but the cold his worst enemy. Once they erected their tent in the middle of the floor of a meat-packing shed, recalling their former Victorian house they had restored, a dream now gone, evaporated. As they dried out in the shed, “host” Polly rushes and announces the offer of temporary work as part of a sheep-shearing team.

Another ray of hope develops when Moth makes an application to the University of Plymouth for a student loan. Could his acceptance be a bridge to a more stable existence? At the same time, Raynor records some other rays of light as they consider only 250 of the 630 miles to complete: β€œAfter months of inland confinement, drowning in a place that didn’t hold us, returning to the cocoon of an untouchable horizon gripped me with a spasm of joy. We peeled away from the heat to the shelter of the trees and the path of short open grass that funneled a pilgrimage of people to the white arches and stacks of Old Harry Rocks and the cliff edge.”

Yet, their existence is always tenuous

β€œLiving with a death sentence, having no idea when it will be enacted, is to straddle a void. Every word or gesture, every breath of wind or drop of rain matters to a painful degree. For now, we had moved outside of that. Moth was on death row, but he’d been granted the right to appeal.”

Near journey’s end, Raynor observes: β€œWatching the ferry leave, β€œOur old life had sailed away, and we let it go, turning our eyes to the west with a fizz of hope. . . . Bodies that fourteen months earlier were hunched and tired, soft and pale, were now lean and tanned, with a re-found muscularity that we’d thought lost forever. Our hair was fried and falling out, our nails broken, clothes worn to a thread, but we were alive.”

Postscript from author

β€œI had no idea what the future would bring, how it would be shaped by the months spent living wild on the Coast Path. All I knew was that we were lightly salted blackberries hanging in the last of the summer sun, and this perfect moment was the only one we needed.” Indeed, these pilgrims had made incredible progress and finally reachedβ€”not the Celestial Cityβ€”but a place to call home.

 

How I Discovered Winn’s book

A few months ago, I heard Martin Clunes and Mel Giedroyc interviewing Raynor Winn on ACORN, a British TV network. She admits that walking the path “saved” Moth and later reads a portion of the book to viewers.

 

You can hear author Winn interviewed in a different venue here:

 

Pilgrims who made enormous progress had finally reachedβ€”not the Celestial Cityβ€”but a place to call Home.

 

QUOTES

The shock of something going right is almost as powerful as when it goes wrong.Β Β Β Β  ~ Raynor Winn, The Salt Path

Everybody needs beauty as well as bread. Β Β Β Β ~John Muir, The Yosemite